There’s a reason why I aim to run early, in life and in travel.
The innkeeper of Tren Del Sur in Puerto Montt insisted an hour’s arrival pre-flight was enough time despite my request for an earlier cab for the “just in case” factor. Just in case there is traffic, an accident, holiday craze, a lost cab driver. I lost the debate with the innkeeper and gave in, submitting to his suggested pickup time. My cab arrived 20 minutes after my requested time, putting me at the airport 35 minutes pre-boarding. I asked for an earlier pickup time just in case the cab driver was late, which she was this morning.
I begged my way through the closed flight and sailed through security to arrive on line for my flight to Punta Arenas, Chile. This flight was the beginning of the journey to Torres del Paine, one of the beloved trekking sites of Chile and the whole Patagonia region. Thousands of mountain folksy people like me show up here with their packs and appetite for adventure to wander the “W” or the “O” routes of the Paine region. My friend, Emily, who relocated to Bariloche, Argentina in 2016 to pursue a freelance writing career and an outdoor recreational lifestyle, was meeting me in Puerto Natales this evening. I was excited to get into the soul of Chile at the bottom of the world.
With the late airport arrival behind, my transit carried on as scheduled — mostly. I enjoyed a scenic bus ride to Puerto Natales through the Patagonia region, a swath of beautiful landscapes I had only come to know through stories, multimedia and past conservation work. I was in the land of the Tompkins family, who I had come to know during my work at Rare and then more recently in my service as a board member for Telluride Mountainfilm. I was surrounded by the origins of one of my favorite retail brands and business leaders, Yvon Chouinard and the apparel company, Patagonia. Despite a new country for my passport, I felt comfortable and at home.
First glance at Torres del Paine, or the Paine range, as I arrived into the town of Puerto Natales (credit: Lindsay Hower, 2017).
The drive to Puerto Natales was breathtaking. Dramatic with its expansive landscapes and perpendicularly angled mountains to the horizon in the distance. The town itself reminded me of Anchorage, Alaska (where I did my Outdoor Educator course with NOLS in 2001), or Rejkavik, Iceland (where my Mom and I had one of our annual globe trots together in 2011), with the houses and stores covered in corrugated iron, the uncrowded sidewalks and the quiet streets that all end up at a water’s edge. I located my hostal, connected with Emily and we got situated for our pre-trek briefing at Erratic Rock, an exemplary outfitter that I highly recommend for anyone seeking a simple set of logistics and accommodations under the leadership of highly experienced guides and porters. We were privileged to have Javier (Javi) as our guide, and Doniilo, as our porter and associate guide. Tobias, a German traveling sabbatical for a year away from his teaching job, was joining us as well. A lovely group of five had formed.
For dinner, Emily and I treated ourselves to a fabulous dinner at a locally famed place called Aldea. Red wine before a five-day backpacking trip was a good idea in our minds then. A brilliant rainstorm passed through while we were inside the cozy space enjoying a tasting provided by the owner (see photo). Forecasting of things to come.
Owner of the local restaurant, Aldea, in Puerto Natales. Here he is treating us to a wine tasting of reds and whites from the southern cone (credit: Lindsay Hower, 2017).
Departure was the following morning, 7:20 AM sharp.